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Author: Subject: GL parts list
vijay
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[*] posted on 2-4-2008 at 10:00 PM
GL parts list


Hi,

After loads of reading through this site, I think it's time to start putting things into action and getting the parts to make the processor up.

Is there a definitive parts list anywhere (I've done a search but couldn't find one).

I'm gonna look at getting the following bits by the weekend:

1 x 117 direct hot water cylinder - http://www.screwfix.com/prods/10924/Plumbing/Hot-Water-Cylinders/Hot-Water-Cy...

7 x 22mm ball valves - http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=OVVUAAWDDRAYACSTHZPCFFA?_dynchar...


Pretty sure I already have an old central heating pump, does it have to be specific?

Does the heater element have to have a have an adjustable thermostat? I assume I use an 11" heater for that tank?

What size copper do I use for the pipework? Is it all 22mm apart from the inner condenser?

Thanks

Vijay

[Edited on 2-4-2008 by vijay]

[Edited on 2-4-2008 by vijay]

[Edited on 2-4-2008 by vijay]
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pjdoran1
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[*] posted on 2-4-2008 at 11:16 PM


hi Vijay
I just built a GL myself, made about 4 trips to the suppliers for extra bits and pieces, the parts required will depend on the layout of your setup and how much room you have etc. Any pump will do, but beware I used a cheaper circ pump to transfer the feedstock to the reactor and it clogged straight away and burnt out so be sure you coarse filter to get out the big bits if using waste. I then replaced it with a grundfos and no problems since, although I am only on my 2nd batch with the GL and now I coarse filter the feedstock. Make sure you ONLY use an 11 inch element, its still 3kw so has plenty of power but there is less chance of it being uncovered and causing an explosion. just a note on that - be careful of the sight tube as it can give false readings if the pump is running, or the oil is cold, or if you forget to open the right valves- I am dipping the tank through one of the side holes until I get used to the sight tube operation.

I am having problems with the integral thermostats on the immersions tripping ( I also have one on my SVO setup for the elsbett equiped jeep)so I have bypassed them and used external stats which seem more reliable. Be SURE to keep the pump running while heating.

I had some really crappy batches with a barrelreactor ( lots of soap)but so far this seems amazing, the only problem so far is weak suction on the venturi but I used a 4mm bit on the angled hole instead of a 7mm as specified so probably my own fault. Also dont forget you will use a fair bit of PVC tube so add a few meters to the list - the size that will fit up tight on 3/4 inch copper, loads of hoseclips too and a lesser amount of 1/2 inch pvc pipe,

THats all the help I can give as Im new to all this too but there is a wealth of knowledge here and the GL website is a boon

Hats off to Graham

Best of luck

PJ
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mortod
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[*] posted on 3-4-2008 at 08:21 AM


Here's my parts list (BES part nrs unless specified). It is GL, but based on a drum. Use it as a starting point to work out what you need:

http://www.davidanddebbie.madasafish.com/files/parts.xls

[Edited on 28-6-2008 by mortod]
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cox377
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[*] posted on 3-4-2008 at 10:43 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by mortod
Here's my parts list (BES part nrs unless specified). It is GL, but based on a drum. Use it as a starting point to work out what you need:

http://www.users.madasafish.com/~davidanddebbie/files/parts.xls


On that list, where did you get those ball valves from?

Coxen




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kit
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[*] posted on 3-4-2008 at 10:57 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by pjdoran1the size that will fit up tight on 3/4 inch copper

22mm :).




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mortod
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[*] posted on 3-4-2008 at 12:06 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by cox377

On that list, where did you get those ball valves from?

Coxen


Err ... like I said, all parts from BES unless specified otherwise. They had them even cheaper last time I looked.
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vijay
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[*] posted on 3-4-2008 at 12:10 PM


Thanks guys. So is all the copper pipe in 22mm?

Vijay
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rellaw
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[*] posted on 3-4-2008 at 12:33 PM


Hi mortod,

Have you any photos of you setup?

It would give a good ideal of how your part list was used.




2000 Octavia TDi 90. Now 6000 miles on B100. No problems. Not had to change the cars filter yet.
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mortod
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[*] posted on 3-4-2008 at 12:44 PM


Pictures at:

http://www.davidanddebbie.madasafish.com/files/bd1.jpg

etc (bd1.jpg - bd7.jpg)

The URLs below are wrong:

http://www.davidanddebbie.madasafish.com/files/bd1.jpg
http://www.davidanddebbie.madasafish.com/files/bd2.jpg
http://www.davidanddebbie.madasafish.com/files/bd3.jpg
http://www.davidanddebbie.madasafish.com/files/bd4.jpg
http://www.davidanddebbie.madasafish.com/files/bd5.jpg
http://www.davidanddebbie.madasafish.com/files/bd6.jpg
http://www.davidanddebbie.madasafish.com/files/bd7.jpg

And Vijay - yes, use 22mm. The only other bits that use 15mm are on the venturi and gas circulation.

[Edited on 28-6-2008 by mortod]

[Edited on 25-7-2008 by mortod]
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vijay
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[*] posted on 3-4-2008 at 01:23 PM


thanks again :)
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harry786
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[*] posted on 3-4-2008 at 02:49 PM


@mortod

can you help how you wired the cylinder thermostat to the element
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mortod
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[*] posted on 3-4-2008 at 02:56 PM


First I used the dual gang 16A switch you can see - I wired that so that the immersion switch is in series with the pump switch. That way you can't turn the immersion on unless the pump is running. Only the live wire is switched so the other connections within the switch housing are connected together with a wiring block.

Then at the immersion, the live is connected into the cable that goes up to the stat, and the stat output then comes back down the other wire in the same cable to the heater, connecting into the heater's own stat where the live would normally connect. So basically the external stat is just connected in series with the live circuit. Think of the stat as a switch inserted in the live wire.
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rellaw
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[*] posted on 3-4-2008 at 04:31 PM


Thats great Mortod.

Do you have any problems with using a drum as a processor?

I see you have a small dome in it. Are the two outlets in it to overcome any issues?

I've got some building to do.




2000 Octavia TDi 90. Now 6000 miles on B100. No problems. Not had to change the cars filter yet.
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[*] posted on 3-4-2008 at 04:45 PM


I'm new at this too and still haven't brewed my first batch yet. I started out building a non GL processor which suggested having two outlets for the following reasons:

1. To avoid whirlpool when draining off BD - the pump might otherwise suck in air and lose prime,
2. The second outlet is slightly taller (about a 1" stand pipe effectively) - any waste glycerol won't get sucked out with the clean BD. You can always drain the remnants off and settle seperately.

I suspect these features are totally unnecessary, but I thought there would be no harm in including them.

The advantages of using a drum are:

1. Easier to tighten flanges,
2. Possible to clean it thoroughly between reactions.
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harry786
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[*] posted on 4-4-2008 at 01:14 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by mortod
First I used the dual gang 16A switch you can see - I wired that so that the immersion switch is in series with the pump switch. That way you can't turn the immersion on unless the pump is running. Only the live wire is switched so the other connections within the switch housing are connected together with a wiring block.

Then at the immersion, the live is connected into the cable that goes up to the stat, and the stat output then comes back down the other wire in the same cable to the heater, connecting into the heater's own stat where the live would normally connect. So basically the external stat is just connected in series with the live circuit. Think of the stat as a switch inserted in the live wire.




hi mortod the explanation yoy have given must be clear but for me is a little hard to understand (sorry not to good with electric) unless diagram given

is it possible to draw a rough circuit diagram of how you connected it please if possible?
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GrahamLaming
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[*] posted on 4-4-2008 at 06:24 AM


Hi mortod

Nice list well done!

Which tank thermostat are you using? I haven't been able to find one which switches 3kW directly, rated 12A or more.

Cheers

Graham




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Bicycle running on G100

http://www.graham-laming.com/bd/main.htm
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mortod
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[*] posted on 4-4-2008 at 07:47 AM


The BES one listed is rated 16A, though is only the strap on variety.
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[*] posted on 16-4-2008 at 07:05 PM


Hi Vijay,
can I be cheeky and ask you if I could help you build your GL. I am only 30 minutes away from you. I am new to Bio. My learning curve will be that much steeper.
Thanks
Jagdish
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