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dickjotec
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posted on 18-9-2007 at 05:46 PM |
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Easy 15 minute venturi for GL processor
I am very impressed with GLs beaten copper venturi and have successfully made one but inspired by his plumbing fitting condenser I got to thinking if
there might be an easier way for people who want a quick and guaranteed result. (I took 3 attempts to get a good beaten copper one!)
The picture below shows the results of a venturi made from copper pipe fittings in 15 ish minutes with with no skill (except soldering).
Hope the links work

This is the first assembly. The 22-15 reducer should be half way into the joiner.

This is the device working. Notice a steady 6 inch Hg on the gauge. The pump is a Tam 105.

Experimenting with the position and size of the 8mm injector and reducing the size of the 15mm venturi tube would /should increase the vacuum
created. I only need this lift which will be greater for meth.
Hope this is of some use.
Solved the link problem
[Edited on 18-9-07 by <b>****</b>jotec]
[Edited on 18-9-07 by <b>****</b>jotec]
[Edited on 18-9-07 by <b>****</b>jotec]
[Edited on 18-9-07 by <b>****</b>jotec]
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e3msb
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posted on 18-9-2007 at 06:29 PM |
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Still cant pull up the pics, did you use an image host, eg, photobucket, free service! Id really like to see it.....
e3msb[steve] 96 disco 300. bio 100. Cit ZX. wvo/mix. PUG405 wvo/mix. Vintage JCB3c GT. bio. home/cent heating,wvo/glyc-oil. Linde forklift 3cyl
Deutz WVO. Petter twin diesel 7kva generator, bio and wvo. Dennis fire engine 1971. 5.8 perkins T6354 historic vehicle, bio. IF YOU HAVE GAINED
KNOWLEDGE OR BEEN AMUSED BY THE ANSWERS GIVEN PLEASE MAKE A SMALL DONATION TO THE FORUM
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dickjotec
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posted on 18-9-2007 at 06:41 PM |
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Solved the link problem -dosnt like substituted urls.
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GrahamLaming
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posted on 18-9-2007 at 09:46 PM |
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Hey, nice job!
That's a very manageable design. Have you tried different lengths of output tube to see how that affects suction?
Keep us posted how it all works out.
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e3msb
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posted on 19-9-2007 at 08:02 AM |
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If you read my posts from way back I was trying to develop a similar thing for people not able to make Grahams version, and although I succeeded to a
degree the results were not really good enough to start posting on the forum. I did not use as big a variation of fittings as you and hadnt tried to
go down to 8mm, and ended up losing a bit of interest. Mine would work fine to distill the methanol out, but struggled to pull the liquids in from
floor level. It seems youve achieved this admirably and Im really pleased that now people have the option to make their own, and relatively simply
venturi, as I know it has been a stumbling block for many. congratulations!
e3msb[steve] 96 disco 300. bio 100. Cit ZX. wvo/mix. PUG405 wvo/mix. Vintage JCB3c GT. bio. home/cent heating,wvo/glyc-oil. Linde forklift 3cyl
Deutz WVO. Petter twin diesel 7kva generator, bio and wvo. Dennis fire engine 1971. 5.8 perkins T6354 historic vehicle, bio. IF YOU HAVE GAINED
KNOWLEDGE OR BEEN AMUSED BY THE ANSWERS GIVEN PLEASE MAKE A SMALL DONATION TO THE FORUM
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dickjotec
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posted on 19-9-2007 at 08:17 AM |
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Thanks for the comments. It is nice to be able to put something back to the forum.
I have not tried any changes as it worked first time but I think shortening the injector output (the 8mm fitting) by a few mm and incorporating a 15
-10 or even 8 reducer on the output side could have a big effect.
Changes on positions and lengths, as you say, will also make a difference.
I might try to get to 15 inches Hg when I have time.
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ELT-H
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posted on 19-9-2007 at 06:49 PM |
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I'd be quite happy with 6 inches.....
ELT H.
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e3msb
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posted on 19-9-2007 at 08:34 PM |
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SIX inches!!!! both ends of mine meet in the middle, any shorter would result in a dip in mi belly. Hope bioqueen int readin .....
e3msb[steve] 96 disco 300. bio 100. Cit ZX. wvo/mix. PUG405 wvo/mix. Vintage JCB3c GT. bio. home/cent heating,wvo/glyc-oil. Linde forklift 3cyl
Deutz WVO. Petter twin diesel 7kva generator, bio and wvo. Dennis fire engine 1971. 5.8 perkins T6354 historic vehicle, bio. IF YOU HAVE GAINED
KNOWLEDGE OR BEEN AMUSED BY THE ANSWERS GIVEN PLEASE MAKE A SMALL DONATION TO THE FORUM
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ELT-H
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posted on 19-9-2007 at 09:38 PM |
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Both ends??? Is yours detachable? must be fixed on with some kind of strap.
ELT H.
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JIM.M
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posted on 19-9-2007 at 10:14 PM |
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nice one I see you are using end feed fittings which are much cheaper than Yorkshire, one thing I would suggest is you try to get some "EVERFLUX FLUX
PASTE" it is self cleaning and water soluble and you will get a much neater joint
JIM.M
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smartfuel
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posted on 3-10-2007 at 02:23 AM |
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Easy 15 minute venturi for GL Processor
Help needed again!! Has a lay-person built one of these? Does it work? I'm researching various designs of venturis that people have kindly uploaded to
this forum and this looks like one of the most straight-forward to make.
Also, how are people supporting all the pipework etc. involved in their plants?....any photos to help me visualise this wld. be of great help!
Thanks for any advice. Smarty
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dickjotec
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posted on 3-10-2007 at 09:14 AM |
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Hi
I have made one as a newbie, but I can work metal, and it works fine, there is very little skill involved. As I have said earlier I do think it can be
improved. The GL one on the site below is also not that difficult provided you take time.
For pipework look at this site.
http://www.london-electronics.com/bd/ecosystem/ecosystem.htm
Schematic are lower down the page for layouts.
I support it as I would ordinary water plumbing ie plastic or metal clips as appropriate.
D I C K
Mitsubish Delica (shogun engine) 95k miles now on 100% bio 20000 miles and counting. Acetone at 1000 miles. Now stopped acetone as it did not seem to
make any difference.
CHP web site http://www.dpks.co.uk/CHP/main.htm
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iann
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posted on 3-10-2007 at 04:20 PM |
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fittings
could this be done with yorkshire fittings as i'm crap at soldering the other type that is shown above?
Ian
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dickjotec
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posted on 3-10-2007 at 04:31 PM |
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Hi Ian
I dont think all of it could be done with Yorkshire as 2 of the reduction fittings have to be inside the others but for the rest it should not make a
difference.
Give it a go.
D i c k
[Edited on 3-10-07 by <b>****</b>jotec]
Mitsubish Delica (shogun engine) 95k miles now on 100% bio 20000 miles and counting. Acetone at 1000 miles. Now stopped acetone as it did not seem to
make any difference.
CHP web site http://www.dpks.co.uk/CHP/main.htm
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e3msb
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posted on 3-10-2007 at 04:41 PM |
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ian. are you goin to pull the oil and the methanol in with the venturi, or is it just to recover the methanol? if so I have made one from yorki
fittings that would do. I`ll see if I can get a picture ..
e3msb[steve] 96 disco 300. bio 100. Cit ZX. wvo/mix. PUG405 wvo/mix. Vintage JCB3c GT. bio. home/cent heating,wvo/glyc-oil. Linde forklift 3cyl
Deutz WVO. Petter twin diesel 7kva generator, bio and wvo. Dennis fire engine 1971. 5.8 perkins T6354 historic vehicle, bio. IF YOU HAVE GAINED
KNOWLEDGE OR BEEN AMUSED BY THE ANSWERS GIVEN PLEASE MAKE A SMALL DONATION TO THE FORUM
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cox377
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posted on 5-10-2007 at 08:12 AM |
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Look grand,
This is the sort of thing I've been looking for because I haven't had much luck with my ventrui
COXen
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cox377
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posted on 31-10-2007 at 07:42 PM |
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Hello All
I'm planning to build one of these tomorrow night as my one build based on GL's doesn't have enough go go.
Has anyone for any mods to up the power as I need quite a lot
Much appreciated
CoXen
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dickjotec
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posted on 31-10-2007 at 08:30 PM |
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The first on I made worked well but if you want more power you will need to experiment with the size and position of the 'injector' part (the reducer
that fits inside the T). You could try filling it with a soldered in bit of copper or brass then drill it progressively bigger 'till it works for your
system. The smaller the hole the hotter the oil will need to be to get it to work.
I tested the prototype on water and used a vacuum gauge to see how much it was drawing
How powerful do you need it?
My first one was able to lift water about 6 feet.
You could also experiment with the exact position of the injector. Use a bit of tume and some pipe clips to get it to the best position before
soldering.
Good luck with it and let us know how you get on.
Mitsubish Delica (shogun engine) 95k miles now on 100% bio 20000 miles and counting. Acetone at 1000 miles. Now stopped acetone as it did not seem to
make any difference.
CHP web site http://www.dpks.co.uk/CHP/main.htm
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cox377
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posted on 31-10-2007 at 10:02 PM |
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do you find the smaller the hole of the injector the more powerful it is?
Much appreciated
CoXen
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GrahamLaming
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posted on 1-11-2007 at 08:58 AM |
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Hi CoXen
There will be an optimum diameter to suit your pump speed.
If your pump isn't the same as D i c k ' s , you'll probably need to use a different diameter.
Take it to the extremes...
If you narrow it to 0mm diameter and it will perform worst.
If you widen it to the main pipe diameter it will work the worst.
So, somewhere in between is the best performance.
If you have a slower pump, you'll get better performance if you narrow the restriction.
If you have a faster pump you'll get better performance if you widen the restriction.
With 22mm main pipe and 50 litres per minute pump, I found an 8mm restriction worked best for me.
With a 100 litre per minute pump it will be around 12 to 13mm.
So really, it's worth trying a few combos to see what works best for you.
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dickjotec
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posted on 1-11-2007 at 09:02 AM |
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Only to a degree I believe it is the ratio of hole nozel position and orifice that determines the power. It is also dependent on the power of the
pump. I am not an expert in any way and am only going on what i can remember of physics classes and my research but the pressure ,or lack of it, is
dependent on the relative speeds of the moving liquid.
I would start at about 5mm and go up in .5 mm increments. You may have to get the best hole size and if it is still not powerful enough then adjust
the position of the injector nozel.
What power do you need?
Mitsubish Delica (shogun engine) 95k miles now on 100% bio 20000 miles and counting. Acetone at 1000 miles. Now stopped acetone as it did not seem to
make any difference.
CHP web site http://www.dpks.co.uk/CHP/main.htm
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cox377
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posted on 1-11-2007 at 09:35 AM |
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Cheers for the advice guys
Well, i've got a 33l a minute pump so not great
I basically need enough for the methanol distilling process to work as I failed missrably with the 22 15 22 one, my handy work wasn't quite upto
scratch
CoXen
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dickjotec
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posted on 1-11-2007 at 10:48 AM |
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Just for meth distilling you should find that the basic 15 min will work fine. I would not worry about modifying the design by drilling. A a lift of
anything over 3 feet of water should be fine as you only have to circulate the hot air around the system.
I also used the tam 105 pump for the tests.
Mitsubish Delica (shogun engine) 95k miles now on 100% bio 20000 miles and counting. Acetone at 1000 miles. Now stopped acetone as it did not seem to
make any difference.
CHP web site http://www.dpks.co.uk/CHP/main.htm
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Chug
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posted on 1-11-2007 at 11:06 AM |
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Hey thats a Kewl idea, thanks for sharing with us <b>****</b>jotec.
Chug
[Edited on 1-11-2007 by Chug]
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e3msb
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posted on 1-11-2007 at 11:23 AM |
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It really takes very little pull in the venturi for distilling, as its only function is to very slightly pressurise the vapour to make it exit into
the condensor. the very crudest of venturi would achieve this. Its when your wanting to pull in liquids from floor level you need to be gettin it to
work to its maximum, and if you cannot get your venturi to perform this you could pull the oil or methoxide in from a pipe and valve set between the
processor and the pump inlet. If you put a short piece of garden hose on the air inlet of the venturi and put it into a half pint glass of bio
held up at the level of the top of the venturi and it can suck the bio in at all then you will have plenty of draw to carry out meth recovery. I have
made a few different crude venturi and they all performed good enough for the recovery job ,but were totally unable to pull liquids from the floor.
Just a thought.... you dont have an open vent on top of the processor that you leave open when you do the recovery do you. I have one on mine and if I
dont shut it then the vapour does not go thru the condensor. the vent should really be on the top of the condensor and have a long copper section to
ensure any rising vapour condenses back into the waterfilled section. I personally dont use a vent at this point as the opening on the condensor
suffices, and I have the one on top leading to the outside for processing.
e3msb[steve] 96 disco 300. bio 100. Cit ZX. wvo/mix. PUG405 wvo/mix. Vintage JCB3c GT. bio. home/cent heating,wvo/glyc-oil. Linde forklift 3cyl
Deutz WVO. Petter twin diesel 7kva generator, bio and wvo. Dennis fire engine 1971. 5.8 perkins T6354 historic vehicle, bio. IF YOU HAVE GAINED
KNOWLEDGE OR BEEN AMUSED BY THE ANSWERS GIVEN PLEASE MAKE A SMALL DONATION TO THE FORUM
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