delbert
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![[*]](./images/onepoint9/default_icon.gif) posted on 26-4-2009 at 06:48 PM |
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Chug inspired me! my First Babington WVO HEATER
So there I was sitting at home when I noticed Chugs ad for Babington Balls, interesting I though and being a tight arse lol, off I went to the
workshop.
Hmm, I seem to have loads of bits to have a little go at making a working machine.
The following pictures are the end result of a few hours here and there over the weekend, OMG thease are so simple to build and use.
In the video link below I have just used cold, unfiltered oil straight from my WVO supplier and fired it up, it worked!!!!
I even had time to take a video of it in action, OMG.
http://www.zen101724.zen.co.uk/heater/DIY_WVO_heater.wmv
[Edited on 26-4-2009 by delbert]
VW T4 2.4d
Twin Tanked and running on WVO.
converted for WVO using homemade and purchased parts.
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Chug
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| posted on 26-4-2009 at 07:36 PM |
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I'm glad to be of some use, and I'm bet your glad you kept them old chairs now eh?
what did you use for the hole? and what size is it?
What size compressor?
[Edited on 26-4-2009 by Chug]
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knighty
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| posted on 26-4-2009 at 07:44 PM |
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wow thats pretty good !!
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delbert
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| posted on 26-4-2009 at 08:14 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Chug
I'm glad to be of some use, and I'm bet your glad you kept them old chairs now eh?
what did you use for the hole? and what size is it?
What size compressor?
[Edited on 26-4-2009 by Chug] |
Chug
Thanks for the nice comments and you defo helped me along the right lines with your posting.
To answer your questions.
- My ball size is 75mm.
- The hole size is unknown to be honest, it was the smallest drill I could find in the workshop, defo smaller than .5mm but exacts are unknown.
- I drilled the hole with a regular Batt pwered drill.
- I am lucky enough to have a large compressor, 150ltr, 3hp and 16CFM if memory serves.
I have just ordered some .3mm and .2mm drills and I have a spare ball so going to try the .2mm first and then who knows.
Opps almost for got those chairs, lol yeah too righty, I almost chopped them up for firewood yesterday, thank the heavens I did not.
Next version is already in the planning.
[Edited on 26-4-2009 by delbert]
VW T4 2.4d
Twin Tanked and running on WVO.
converted for WVO using homemade and purchased parts.
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Perfo
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| posted on 28-4-2009 at 03:29 AM |
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How much air do you estimate it's using ?
The L200 (4d56 2006) seems to be running nice on WVO/Dino blend upto 90% runs well but a bit more reluctant to start. All good so far.
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Rotary-Motion
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| posted on 28-4-2009 at 06:19 AM |
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intrigued and tidy!
got a couple of Q's chap if ya dont mind...
Where do you get the balls from?
does the size of ball matter?
does the oil totally need to cover the ball, dripping on to it for ignition?
for continous use does the oil need to be circulated over ball via pump?
what is that steel tubing from?
when you turn air valve up and down does it stay lit? (if so - tidy!)
how long does a LTR of oil run the burner for?
if you stop the air flow does the ball catch fire?
just a thought to this idea of drilling the hole! drill the hole bigger and tap a thread init to the size of carburetter jets and then you can try
different sizes in there... these jets are very fine holes of different sizes...
[Edited on 28-4-2009 by Rotary-Motion]
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delbert
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| posted on 28-4-2009 at 08:37 AM |
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Good morning RM and Perfo
There is no way I can consider myself as an expert, this was my first go and lucky for me it worked first time, therefore please be aware that my
replies below may not represent an "experts" response on this subject but I will give it my best shot.
Where do you get the balls from? I got my balls from http://www.ornategarden.com/catalogue/range.asp?gid=562 or Chug
suggested the ones as per this thread http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/forum/viewthread.php?tid=12270&page=1...
does the size of ball matter? Reading on this forum and other forums there are pros and cons for large and small balls, it is said
that the larger balls are more capable of running with less consistent oil than the smaller versions.
does the oil totally need to cover the ball, dripping on to it for ignition? now this is interesting I would have thought it needed
to cover the whole ball but my initial test showed it only needs to cover about half of the ball surface to cork correctly.
for continuous use does the oil need to be circulated over ball via pump? yes but I could run the device using that old can for 10
mins and without heating the oil. regarding the pump this is my next step to resolve.
what is that steel tubing from? lol, that is an old insulated log burner flue pipe I have laying around but the heat from the device
is so hot it may well have destroyed the insulation, man it does get very, very, very hot.
when you turn air valve up and down does it stay lit? (if so - tidy!) yes it does within certain parameters, there appears to be a
low point of about 20 PSI but the upper limit was well over 60psi
how long does a LTR of oil run the burner for? sorry I have no facts on this, research on the net seems to suggest 1 or 2 litres per
hour.
if you stop the air flow does the ball catch fire? lol, the ball never get hot, seriously the pipe is so hot it worries me but the
ball always remains cool.
Perfo, I am not sure how to measure the air use, my compressor is 150 litres and 16 cfm and during my 10 min continuous run the dial on my compressor
hardly moved at all. My research on the subject indicated that some just charge a 100lb gas bottle with air and if I remember correctly this lasted
from 1 - 2 hours, I guess this all depends on the hole size in the ball.
I hope that helps, flippin amazing little build, hooked now for sure. I think I may well do the following.
[Edited on 28-4-2009 by delbert]
VW T4 2.4d
Twin Tanked and running on WVO.
converted for WVO using homemade and purchased parts.
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jezmondo
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| posted on 28-4-2009 at 03:06 PM |
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its all about big hot balls!!
chris is gona have trouble glassing in 40 oc!!
well done mate looks great,do you reckon you could use it to heat your hot tub?
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Perfo
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| posted on 28-4-2009 at 04:19 PM |
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I'll add a few lines if I may.
Originally posted by Rotary-Motion
intrigued and tidy!
got a couple of Q's chap if ya dont mind...
Where do you get the balls from?
Anything round and shiny will do I used a brass door knob from b&Q and soldered an air pipe in to the hole where the thread goes. Mind you
I did loose the half the ball once as I put too much pressure in 
does the size of ball matter?
No not as much as the shinyness. A filed bolt works but not a s well as a 2 inch shiny ball. As it relies on surface tension to stretch the
oil out in to a micro film before the air atomises it, It works best the shinier the surface near the air port.
does the oil totally need to cover the ball, dripping on to it for ignition?
No as long as there is a constant (ie not interrupted) flow across the air port then it'll work. As I mentioned about a simple dome ended Bolt
seems to work.
for continous use does the oil need to be circulated over ball via pump?
It needs a continues flow or it goes out immediately. This design has been used in mobile kitchens due to if the vehicle tips beyond a certain
point it goes out.
what is that steel tubing from?
when you turn air valve up and down does it stay lit? (if so - tidy!)
I found it better to have multi air holes than try to control too much on air. It seems a certain size air hole like a certain range of air
pressures. You can drill two holes slightly apart and switch one on and off to get a step change in burner output.
how long does a LTR of oil run the burner for?
Totally depends on air hole size and air pressure but I have run it with the smallest hole I could drill and little air which I'm sure was in
the 1 litre for a few hours use.
if you stop the air flow does the ball catch fire?
No the ball stays cold. In fact this is one of the problems the tube and flame inducts so much air that it cools the ball and flame on it's
way past. Thus an upgrade on the basic design is to blank off the ball end of the burner tube and force the air to come in at a point just at the
flame root.
just a thought to this idea of drilling the hole! drill the hole bigger and tap a thread init to the size of carburetter jets and then you can try
different sizes in there... these jets are very fine holes of different sizes...
This may work but don't forget you need surface tension to give you the best atomisation so any jet would have to be mounted back a bit in the
ball. Some have had great success by putting a channel in the ball which passes over the air hole so if you mounted a carb jet in there and ensured it
was flush then it should work. Give it a go and let us know. If you can get hold of the right size jets then it make the whole thing a lot
easier.
The L200 (4d56 2006) seems to be running nice on WVO/Dino blend upto 90% runs well but a bit more reluctant to start. All good so far.
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delbert
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| posted on 29-4-2009 at 08:14 AM |
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guys, a huge thank you for all the suggestions, nice words and advice, certainally some food for thought.
Version 2 is being built right now.
VW T4 2.4d
Twin Tanked and running on WVO.
converted for WVO using homemade and purchased parts.
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Rotary-Motion
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| posted on 30-4-2009 at 06:32 AM |
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dont suppose there is any way to get a very quiet compressor to work this, thought of one running constant outways its use to me? noisy suckers...
make great patio heater though...
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delbert
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| posted on 30-4-2009 at 08:20 AM |
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RM
Funny enough I have been looking into an alternate air solution, there apears to be those that like to charge and empty gas bottle up with compressed
air and use that, then there are some people on other forums using fridge compressors or even the 12v tyre inflators to supply the air.
I checked on the size of my air hole yesterday and was supprise to find it was .5mm, OMG and it still worked, amazing.
However my .3mm ddrill turned up yesterday so I am going to mod another ball using the newer smaller drill bit and see how that performs, hmm so much
fun.
Sparked up the first go last night because a friend wanted to see it, brilliant...
VW T4 2.4d
Twin Tanked and running on WVO.
converted for WVO using homemade and purchased parts.
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horiZontal
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| posted on 14-5-2009 at 02:41 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Rotary-Motion
dont suppose there is any way to get a very quiet compressor to work this |
An airbrush compressor is whisper quiet and works fine.
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horiZontal
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| posted on 14-5-2009 at 03:09 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by delbert
I checked on the size of my air hole yesterday and was supprise to find it was .5mm, OMG and it still worked, amazing.
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That's certainly bigger than normal. The commonly accepted size is 0.0135" = No.80 bit or slightly smaller.
A great place to get your bits is HERE. They're on 1/8" shanks and
are resharpened, which makes them as cheap as chips.
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delbert
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| posted on 14-5-2009 at 04:30 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally posted by horiZontal
| Quote: | Originally posted by delbert
I checked on the size of my air hole yesterday and was supprise to find it was .5mm, OMG and it still worked, amazing.
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That's certainly bigger than normal. The commonly accepted size is 0.0135" = No.80 bit or slightly smaller.
A great place to get your bits is HERE. They're on 1/8" shanks and
are resharpened, which makes them as cheap as chips.
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Cheers fella.
I have been a bit restricted on time recently but have another version of this using a .3mm hole but it does not work nearly as well as the larger
hole.
I am hoping to get some spare time soon and give this another go.
VW T4 2.4d
Twin Tanked and running on WVO.
converted for WVO using homemade and purchased parts.
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;]- ~~~ ~~ ~ 
